High Road to Taos
Our destination on Tuesday was the High road to Taos. It's a gotta see, or drive, for anyone interested in some New Mexico history and for some very nice scenery.
Our first stop was to be the world famous Santuario de Chimayo.
The shrine, el Santuario de Chimayo, is probably the most visited church in New Mexico. It is believed to be built on sacred earth which has miraculous healing powers. Each time we've been in this area I've meant to visit the church but, for one reason or another, haven't managed to get there. This time I was determined.
I started out and followed the signs, hoping to find the Chimayo Shrine, sometimes called, "Lourdes of the Southwest." After a lot of twisting and turning we finally drove into a small parking area in front of a church. I thought this might be the place; Johnna said no it couldn't be. We wandered around a bit, went into the church, took a few pictures, but still weren't convinced that we were at the shrine.
Not the Santuario de Chimayo.
The parking area is surrounded by shops so I went into one and talked to the proprietor; she said "Yes, you're in the right spot, but the Chimayo Santuario church is a couple of buildings up the road." We had indeed found the famous spot and, since mass was due to start in 15 minutes or so, we rushed over in order to see the interior before services started.
Santuario de Chimayo.
Another view.
Closer to the entrance.
The interior, just a bit blurry.
During Holy Week thousands make the pilgrimage to Santuario de Chimayo ; they walk a few yards or a hundred miles. Many people believe they have been cured of there diseases. People that are cured, or feel they have been, often discard crutches and hang before-and-after photographs on the sacristy walls.
This is first time I've been to a famous shrine and I'll have to admit to a certain amount of wonder and respect, even though I'm not a believer.
Just off the parking area.
Inside the gate of the Peregrino Cafe. What chili would Jesus have liked, green or red?
The Spanish influence is everywhere in Northern New Mexico. From the architecture, to the food. But where I notice it the most is in the faces of the people. I grew up in Truth or Consequences NM; there were many families I referred to as Mexicans, but who thought of themselves as Spanish. My family figured they were just being uppity. How could they be Spanish, they hadn't come directly from Spain. However, when you visit northern New Mexico it becomes clear that there are at least three cultures, Spanish, typical American and Mexican Americans.
I spent some time talking to the woman running the Peregrino Cafe. She was from the Chimayo valley; her family had settled there with other Spanish settlers coming to the Chimayo valley after the Pueblo Revolt in 1680-1692. She did have a sliver on Navajo in her family background, but as far as she was concerned, she was Spanish, an understandable attitude, given the areas history. I can remember how offended local families would become when they were referred to as Mexicans. And this woman of Spanish ancestry, definitely didn't want to be called Mexican.
After Chimayo we drove up the road and took a look at the town of Truchas.
Truchas is built on a high ridge (8400 feet) and began as a Spanish land grant in 1754. The town has excellent views of Truchas Peak (13,100 ft.) and the Española Valley. It is easily defended and served as an outpost over the centuries. The town has attracted many artists that have moved to Northern New Mexico because of the thriving arts scene. The Robert Redford movie, The Milagro Beanfield War (1988), was filmed here. The town still maintains some of the original Spanish land grant bylaws; cars must share the roads with livestock.
Old church, now an artist studio.
Gong hanging in front of studio.
Road shearing.
After getting lost in Truchas, not easy since there are about two streets, we hurried on down the road to Las Trampas.
Las Trampas is a Spanish colonial village established in 1751. We stopped to photograph the San Jose de Gracia de Las Trampas mission church. The church, completed in 1780, originally was a lay chapel and is now considered to be one of the best preserved examples of Spanish Colonial Mission architecture in New Mexico. It is still an active parish church and was fully restored in the 1970s.
San Jose de Garacia de Las Trampas.
Side View.
Our last stop for the day, was the Pikuria pueblos.
The pueblo was named Pikuria -- those who paint -- by spanish colonizer Juan de Onate. Before the pueblo revolt (1680-1692) Pikuria was the largest Tiway pueblo, now it is one of the smallest. The pueblo was heavily influenced by Plains Indian culture, particularly the Apaches. The 200-year-old adobe church, San Lorenzo de Picuris was restored in eight years by tribal members.
San Lorenzo de Picuris.
Front of church.
Rear of Church.
Interior.
No pews, to accommodate Lorenzo Feast Day Dancing on August 10. The floor looked rather new, Formica I think.
A closer look.
The pueblo also has a trout fishing lake called the Pu-na Lake. The central plaza and church are located below the original pueblo where several kivas are located. The kiva roofs have collapsed although several still have a ladder protruding from the entrance. I assume the Kivas are no longer usable. There is a new above ground Kiva built next to the caved in ones.
New Kiva with entrance to an older Kiva in the foreground.
Like most pueblos you can find weaving, pottery, and assorted craft items for sale by local artists. Picurís is also the majority owner of the Hotel Santa Fe located in the capitol city's historic downtown area.
Our trip to the Picuris Pueblo concluded our high road excursion. We'll remember this trip and someday come back to see it all again. When we come back to Northern New Mexico, we'll have a better understanding of the area, know what to look for, and be able to search out the sights we missed this time.
